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城堡大秀回顧:Valentino 高訂出現襯衫、牛仔褲,究竟什麼是「極繁主義」?
大秀的每一分每一秒,都像畫一樣美✨
各個品牌的 Haute Couture 高級訂製服大秀輪番登場,最具詩意浪漫的代表,可不能少了 Valentino。先前在直播預告中,曾向讀者分享過 Valentino 2023-24 的秋冬高級訂製大秀,選在具有 665 年歷史的城堡 Château de Chantilly 香堤堡,創意總監 Pierpaolo Piccioli 將這個空間延伸為系列的靈感,不僅是乘載了地域與時空,也是頌揚美、個性、自由的平等公共舞台,更直接將系列取做「Un Château」。
Valentino 這次 Un Château 大秀光是第一套便足夠已經討論,由 Kaia Gerber 穿著日常的牛仔褲、白襯衫率先邁開步伐,仔細看你還會發現,平底鞋出現了全部 76 個 Looks,沒有印象中高訂代表的禮服那樣隆重磅礴,不過卻多了將目光聚焦在專業、工藝的機會。近幾季 Valentino 強調很多次刪繁就簡的美學,本季也不例外,將剪裁貼合身體曲線,也把複雜的版型接縫拿掉,呼應著高級訂製服的初心,傳達當代的設計語言。
不過快別以為刪繁就簡,Valentino 的高訂就少了華麗。將織物的重量減輕、具象的裝飾變成抽象的細節、色調分明的阿拉伯花紋、皺摺賦予了雕塑般的美感,這是都是 Valentino 將設計極致簡化之後延伸出的「極繁主義」,有牛仔褲、襯衫、平底鞋,同時也有華貴的人造貂皮、如瀑布傾瀉而下的水晶珠寶,最後創意總監 Pierpaolo Piccioli 牽著整個工藝團隊出場,站在鎂光燈前面,再一次豐富了高訂時裝所乘載的意蘊。
Valentino 2023-24 秋冬高級訂製系列
加入 Popbee Circle 和訂閱 POPBEE 電子報,即時閱覽最新情報,更可快一步了解精彩的尊享禮遇及折扣優惠!除了這篇外,最近還有以下的報導值得你留意: